Cypress is a most interesting hybrid: a large-format restaurant serving fine-dining classics alongside some of the most inventive farm-to-table cuisine in town. The menu offers old standards like steak Diane and a chateaubriand for two, but there’s also vermillion snapper with cabbage and rice purloo and a duo of fennel-roasted pork belly and loin with kale and farro. Executive Chef Craig Deihl has earned a national reputation as a master of handcrafted charcuterie and house-cured meats and hams, and it’s essential to start off a meal with a platter of his artisanal meats. It might hold anything from rillettes and saucisson to spreadable fennel salami and thinly sliced house-cured ham with spicy mustard. Follow that up with the briny and spicy bites of the sashimi tuna and oysters before moving onto the entrées. The regular menu includes solid pleasers like smoked salmon Wellington and a filet with Boursin cheese, but the best option is usually whatever heritage pork special they’re offering that day. Cypress’s swanky dining room with its Vegas-like three-story glass wine wall is a welcome dose of old-school luxury in this era of staged rusticity, but if you’re in the mood for something more low-key, head upstairs to the bar and order some of Deihl’s innovative bar snacks, like crispy pork belly with kimchi fritters or the chili cheese dog on an “everything” bun. Monday is $5 burger night at the bar. We’re talking a wood-grilled burger on a fresh yeast roll: hands-down one of the best dining deals in town. —Robert Moss Dish, Winter 2016
A mix of contemporary dishes with nostalgic favorites bridges the gap between club diners of the '50s and the tapas nibblers of today. Voted Best Wine Selection by CP readers.