by Paul Bowers
One thing's for sure about the folks at Park Pizza: They've got chutzpah. Not only did they have the audacity to open across the street from EVO — North Charleston's most famous gourmet pizza parlor — but they're willing to stick their necks out with some off-the-wall experimental pies. No Italian purists, these culinary alchemists push the envelope with creations like the Nacho, the Indian, the Thai, and the Cordon Bleu . But the biggest risk they've taken has to be the Teriyabi: teriyaki chicken, pineapples, shredded coconut (and not just a little), and wasabi peas over the creamy house cucumber-wasabi dressing, all blanketed in mozzarella. Unexpectedly, the result is more sweet than spicy, more subtle than shocking, and more culturally transcendent than head-scratchingly weird. On paper, it shouldn't work. This pizza should be a train wreck, but instead it's a transcontinental first-class flight.
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