Ken Vedrinski, chef and owner of Trattoria Lucca, does a lot of things well. Among them is his crudo. You'll see plenty of raw fish dishes on menus around town, usually tuna tartars, but Vedrinski goes beyond that Asian standard and seeks out the best quality local fish he can find, like flounder, local bass, and mackerel. He slices it very thin (think beef carpaccio), covers the plate with it, and then deftly adds a variety of tastes and flavors to accentuate the raw fish. Ingredients like Ligurian olive oil, fresh tangerine juice, Calabrese chiles, pickled garlic, celery hearts, and Sicilian sea salt enhance and complement without overshadowing the delicate flavor of the fish. Vedrinski does several variations on crudo, often adding things like a homemade sweet and sour (agro dolce) preparation of Mepkin Abbey oyster mushrooms, or a little colatura di alici, which is an anchovy sauce from southern Italy reminiscent of soy sauce.
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