Grandeur seems to be a theme at Dockery’s. The space itself is ginormous, with high ceilings, copious bar and table seating, and a large stage. There are also outdoor tables, including a communal high top with a firepit in the middle, and even a modular greenhouse located in a shipping container outside. Service is friendly and helpful. The staff shows hustle, yet is ever-present and cheerfully available, a welcome touch at such a large establishment. The menu offerings are expansive — order the soba noodles, which are just too unorthodox to pass up. Tiny but powerful, a small serving of the Japanese buckwheat pasta is tossed with Korean kimchi, shreds of bitter radish, and some anise-flavored microgreens. Topped with sesame seeds, it’s spicy, sour, strange ... And skillful. It’s the kind of dish that maybe shouldn’t work, but does, showcasing the obvious talent in the kitchen. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Winter 2019)

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