At Hank’s, waiters in white jackets and black ties serve historic local dishes like she-crab soup, bouillabaisse, and seafood a la Wando, a blend of shrimp, scallops, and fish in a rich sherry cream. The “fried” section of the menu features five different selections of heaping Southern seafood platters, all served with fried sweet potatoes and classic coleslaw. And of course you’ll find Hank’s seafood tower or seafood castle — gleaming silver ice-filled pans bearing chilled shrimp, oysters, mussels, lobster, and stone crab claws. Add it all up, and you’ve got flashy, big-ticket seafood dining that can please even the most sophisticated palate. —Kinsey Gidick (Dish, Winter 2019)