Hours: Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. & Mon. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Lewis’ building houses four custom built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand built by Lewis and his father. Once inside you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing” beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs, and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans, and rich green chile corn pudding. —Robert Donovan (Dish, Winter 2020)
Brisket bad boy John Lewis specializes in brisket, pulled pork "hot guts" sausage, and traditional sides.