Papi's Taqueria Image

Hours: Daily, 4-10 p.m.

The chic, beachy spot is set in a retrofitted blue and white beach house on Ocean Boulevard, smack dab between Coconut Joe’s and the Windjammer. Although Papi’s is small, it manages to squish in three options — a bright, white shiplap-clad room filled with dining tables, a small upstairs bar, and an outside rooftop deck with partial ocean views. The menu features a handful of appetizers: chips and (three kinds of) salsa, nachos, Mexican street corn, tomato rice, and frijoles. But when you visit Papi’s it’s all about the tacos. A sure thing is the How Ya Durin, a fried shrimp taco by any other name. Enveloped in a five-inch handmade corn tortilla from Mitla Tortilleria, the lightly breaded prawns are accompanied by pickled chayote, crunchy cabbage, and red onions, plus a creamy remoulade. Rich, yet fresh and bright, this is the shrimp taco you expect, only a little better. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Summer 2019)

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