Saltwater Cowboys

Hours: Lunch, Dinner (Daily) Sun. Brunch

Price: $$$

While seated on the dog-friendly outdoor deck, the water views cannot be beat. Kayakers, shrimp boats, and even dolphins pass by. Inside, the space is bright and airy, with large floor-to-ceiling windows and giant TVs silently tuned to ESPN. The menu features a variety of sandwiches, as well as fried seafood platters and barbecue. Try the fried grouper fingers — these ain’t no fish sticks. Rather, the five chubby “fingers” — firm and fresh — are lightly breaded and perfectly fried. They’re accompanied by an excellent tartar sauce, but the white, flaky grouper is so lovely it seems a shame to drown it in mayo, no matter how fine. Order a bevy of sides, you can’t go wrong. The mac and cheese is a prime example. Topped with a layer of melted cheddar so thick as to require a knife, it’s comforting decadence at its best. Similarly, the corn pudding will likely bring back childhood memories. Inaccurately named, this is creamed corn if ever there were. Filled with soft, cooked onions and plump white corn kernels, there’s a familiar tinny flavor that indicates the yellow corn may have come from a can. For some people — like my dining companion — this may induce a nostalgia-based hunger that makes it hard to share. The Geechie Boy house grits are a fine example of the genre. Creamy and buttery, yet not ridiculously so, they’re another solid offering. Same can be said of the collards, which are neither too sweet nor too vinegary, and still retain a bit of their verdant vegetable-ness. If it’s ‘cue you crave, go for the smoked turkey breast. In addition to great flavor, the two thick slices are tender and succulent, not always an easy feat with turkey. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Summer 2019)

Restaurant Details

Serving fresh local seafood and smoked barbecue, this Shem Creek spot is open daily for lunch and dinner with happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m., plus live music, free parking, and unbeatable sunset views.


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