Hours: Lunch & Dinner
At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizza, pastas, and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like clams and roasted fennel or pork meatballs and red peppers. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from “Geechie frites” (long strips of fried polenta) up to a crispy duck with farro verde, spring vegetable, and roasted tomato vinaigrette. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. All this is served in an airy, open dining room with light-gray weathered planks accented by lots of pale-blue details. It’s a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes The Obstinate Daughter one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches but anywhere in town. —Robert Moss (Dish, Winter 2019)
Executive Chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizza, pastas, and small plates.