Vicious Biscuit

Hours: Mon.-FrI. 7AM-3PM
Sat./Sun. 8AM-3PM

Let’s say you’re building a boat in which you’re planning to transport two of every animal you can get your hands on. Are you going to build it out of twigs and pine needles? No, you are not. You’re going to construct that ship out of structural steel. Now, let’s imagine you’re going to load pulled pork, thick-cut bacon, barbecue sauce, horseradish, and pickled jalapenos on a biscuit (The Babe). Clearly, a light, airy biscuit two inches across and three inches high just won’t do. This situation requires a Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson of biscuits, as broad as it is solid. I’m talking the kind of biscuit that if you squeezed it into a greasy ball and threw it at someone, it would hurt. Behold, the vicious biscuit: A big, buttery, perhaps even bulletproof colossus of dense dough perfect for escorting two of every animal into your mouth. Or, in the case of the Crab Benny a large, meaty crab cake, fried slice of green tomato, sunny-side up egg, and hollandaise sauce. Generous in both size and seafood, the crabcake alone is worth the price of admission. Then there’s the green tomato, which seems to have been cooked prior to battering. This renders it more tender and sweet than the usual offering, a welcome improvement that complements rather than competes. Topped with a runny egg and rich hollandaise, attempting it as a handheld will probably result in wearing some of it home. But, hey, it’s a look. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Summer 2019)

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