NYFW Day 3: Timo Weiland's Scandinavian hipster cool

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Timo Weiland, the young men’s and women’s contemporary label co-designed by Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, debuted under the tents Sunday morning with a youthful collection inspired by the Scandinavian seaside.

Skirt hems were short, pant cuffs rolled, and prints ubiquitous. Models in contrasting primary colors balanced atop wooden platforms interspersed with thick chains of nautical rigging rope while a short accompanying film called The Watch by Shal Ngo mesmerized on large, mounted screens above. The collection deftly mixed outspoken prints; an ink blot pattern repeated in stark navy and bright red worn simultaneously in a three-piece skirtsuit endowed the wearer with a modish gregariousness. A poppy red silk shirt knotted with nautical flair at the waist even looked downtown-serene paired with a soft pink mini skirt.

A series of chambray looks were breezy and spring-like on both men and women, including a vertically striped sailor print used on elongating ladies' bell-bottoms and a two-button jacket for men. Color blocking was another gender-blind trend, most notably employed in a khaki button-front raincoat outfitted with teal sleeves and black front pockets. There was one cocktail dress silhouette, which featured a sweetheart bust topped with a mesh boat neck and a short, overlaid skirt. A narrow cut-out band encircled the waist like a belt and was filled with mesh. In a vivid Fjordland landscape print with matching hooded raincoat, the dress was playful and bold, yet in a butter yellow lace, the dress came across as demure and almost Victorian.

A leggy brunette with long, center-parted hair wearing the yellow version of the dress collapsed halfway through the presentation, eliciting little more than a blink from the model in the printed version beside her. She was carried out by a silent guard, and the dress reemerged unscathed about ten minutes later on a petite blonde who struggled to fill it out. The brunette was not seen again.

Men struck a scholarly chord in tortoise frame glasses — notably similar to the spectacles worn by the label’s namesake — and multi-layered looks, including button-downs worn with long cardigans and jackets. The label’s navy and black combination from the fall carried over to spring in a long black blazer and matching short edged in black. A jean jacket was revitalized with a zipper, cuffed sleeves, and popped collar and made of subtly iridescent, oil stained denim.

The strong collection, part intellectual, part hipster — think Dead Poet’s Society on the Lower East Side—was unique, playful, and surprisingly wearable. That evening at the after-party at Ohm in Chelsea, which featured a rousing performance by The Rassle, Weiland examined his buzzing Blackberry. “We’re in Style.com! Our first Style.com appearance!” he exclaimed, after checking his email, and the circle of supporters around him let out a whoop of cheer. The first of much good news to come.

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